Pietermaritzburg - Capital of the Zulu Kingdom

Overview ... finale

En route back to Pietermaritzburg through the heart of the Midlands, Wartburg is the 'German Connection'...centre of a district founded in the early 1850s by cotton-growing pioneers from the fatherland. Many of today's residents are 4th generation Germans who've kept their language and culture very much intact. In addition to the traditional mountain-style inn, townsfolk open their homes to offer visitors authentic Rhineland hospitality.

Between Wartburg and the capital, Albert Falls Public Resort and Nature Reserve invites holidaymakers with the lure of watersports, fishing and game viewing - ideal for day trips, but with self-catering accommodation to tempt longer stays.

Beyond Pietermaritzburg in the southern Midlands, Richmond & Byrne are a small town and holiday hamlet in wild, contrasting countryside that once formed part of King Shaka's exclusive hunting grounds. While that privilege no longer features on the list of attractions, there's nonetheless a wealth of country treats waiting to tantalize. Richmond buzzes with a dynamic mix of Zulu lifestyle and historic settler churches, homesteads and public buildings. It also claims a few 'firsts' for our Kingdom - first Anglican church, girls' college, country primary school and tennis club! Bombay House and the Madrassi Mosque bear witness to the part played by communities from the subcontinent who've graced this country with their ancient culture. Byrne lies 12km westwards too far, in the 1870s, to travel for church on Sundays, hence the tiny chapel of St Mary Magdalene. The Byrne valley's grand old oak trees lend their name to a long-established family holiday venue.

In the Midlands' southernmost corner, Ixopo has the rare distinction of being immortalised in one of our country's most famous works of literature. Alan Paton's 'Cry the Beloved Country' opens with 'There is a lovely road which runs from Ixopo into the hills. These hills are grass covered and rolling, and they are lovely beyond any singing of it...' Hiking trails intersect this perfectly described terrain, a number leading to the waterfall highlights of three rivers that power their way through the valleys. The tallest is 120m and access difficult - consult the locals to ascertain beforehand how much of a challenge you're in the mood to face! Among the wide variety of birds seen around Ixopo - including rare and endangered species - many provide an added 'natural high' for meditators at the nearby Buddhist Retreat Centre. Longest- running of all Buddhist places of learning in our country, the BRC - as it's popularly known - stands in 125ha of pristine surroundings at the head of a beautiful valley. Private retreats and group workshops are conducted within this semi-monastic environment - adherents of all denominations and philosophical persuasions are welcome and no religious conversion is required. Contact the centre for a calendar of events that range between bird listing, Japanese brush painting and the psychology of meditation.

zoom The rural surrounds of Ixopo Photo:uMgungundlovu District Municipality

Heading inland, Boston-Bulwer are the twin hubs of a relatively new tourism initiative called the Boston-Bulwer Beat...a route of game viewing and outdoor adventuring with a few arts and crafts venues added for good measure. Standing rather solemn guard over Bulwer is Magwaqa Mountain - 'The Frowning One' - that should, in fact, be rather pleased at earning top marks among international hang- and para-gliding enthusiasts. It is possible to ascend the peak on foot and return the same way... without flinging oneself off into space! Fast-flowing watercourses promise thrills aboard inflatable tubes, a number of hiking trails include overnight camps and 4x4/mountain-bike challenges abound - with all these calorie- burning activities it's not surprising that renowned and authentic Boston-Bulwer country cooking is in constant demand...and hard to beat!

zoom Bulwer's 'Yellowwood' Chapel Photo:uMgungundlovu District Municipality

Yet further inland, the approach to Underberg and Himeville opens a panoramic view of the southern and central ranges of the Drakensberg. Tranquil, pristine and merely a glance away from fern- carpeted forests, towering spires, isolated valleys and hidden caves where the 'ancient ones' left their unique mark, this secluded slice of paradise is a holiday heaven in its own right - more than a mere threshold. This applies to the entire Midlands region - gateway to the Berg, Bush, Battlefields and Beach of our Zulu Kingdom surely...but with a Buzz and charm all of its own, beckoning with a myriad delights among wide open spaces and spectacular scenery. Add the friendliest, most hospitable folk you could ever hope to meet and there's a whole new meaning to the old phrase 'getting there is half the fun'. In our case, getting there is the fun - come experience it for yourself...soon!

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