Pietermaritzburg - Capital of the Zulu Kingdom

Pietermaritzburg and Midlands overview continued...

Another national monument in Howick is the spectacular waterfall that plunges almost 100m to the gorge below...small wonder Zulu folk call it 'Place of the Tall One'! For a 'lazy' look at Howick Falls, stroll to the observation platform from nearby caf or picnic sites - for a challenging experience, take the steep trail it's a breathtaking scenario down there, but save some for the climb back up! There are several easier, hour-long explorations of this mini-wonderland of river and valley.

From the base of Howick Falls, 7km of river frontage, wild flowers, prolific bird-life and many small animals are encapsulated within the Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve, an environmental education centre that also welcomes visitors to enjoy its beauty on foot or by car. Learning opportunities of a different nature lie in store at the Howick Museum and historic Military Cemetery. In the Old Agricultural Hall adjacent to the museum, Howick boasts our country's largest, best-stocked curio and craft centre, offering the 'real thing' from within and beyond our borders. There's possibly no more tempting occasion to lighten the wallet than a leisurely browse through Craft Southern Africa...although the hundreds of outlets waiting along the 'Midlands Meander' would doubtless disagree!

zoom Howick Falls

Creative folk began gravitating towards the tranquil, haven- like Midlands in the late 60s and early 70s - not our country's most enlightened era...and 'hippies' were frowned upon, to put it mildly. Those young 'pioneers' are today the 'mature and responsible generation' of artists, potters and weavers who, in 1985, joined forces to instigate this unique arts and crafts route. Able to keep prices in check by selling directly to the public, this development in turn attracted more like-talented people to the region...followed by entrepreneurs in the catering and hospitality fields eager to become part of a burgeoning, highly popular 'scene'. The overwhelming number of attractions along the Midlands Meander generated the need for its own map, detailing hamlets and hideaways and their country lane addresses.

Most, but by no means all, are found on the southern side of the main Midlands highway...beyond Midmar Dam. Zoned for yachts and powerboats, but also a playground for boardsailers and canoeists, it s 'swimmers only' on a special day each February when thousands pit their strength against the famed 'Midmar Mile'. Chalets, cabins and campsites dot the 15km of developed shoreline ideal for exploring - on foot or by vehicle - the adjoining 1 000ha game-park home of zebra, springbok, hartebeest, oribi and blesbok. Camera-shooting only here, but an easily-obtainable, local fresh-water license will give you the chance to bag some of the dam's aquatic inhabitants.

zoom Midland Meander Art & craft Photo:uMgungundlovu District Municipality

Continuing inland - off the beaten track - the picturesque villages of Nottingham Road and Rosetta are encountered en route to the Meander's furthest extreme - just beyond Mooi River. At the centre of vast, fertile farmlands, Mooi River displays the ordered beauty of tilled fields interspersed with dairy and sheep pastures. Splendour of the untamed variety lies within 2 500ha of thorn-bush valley at the Zulu Falls Game Farm, a natural heritage site where antelope and zebra roam, and visitors marvel at the spectacular waterfall from their rustic rondavel camp. Local textile manufacture - revitalised by the success of the Midlands Meander - is once again causing a stir...as are the 'million dollar' offspring of highly successful horse studs. Most are open to visitors, but for riding experiences you'll have to contact one of the horse-trail operators! Apart from the gamut of outdoor activities one would expect from such naturally wonderful terrain, some of this country's most acclaimed country houses and exclusive hotels are within easy reach of Mooi River...should you dream of plush surrounds, sumptuous cuisine and being waited on hand and foot. Nearby, pampering of a different design awaits the stressed-out victim of city life at one of our country's most popular health hydros.

Equally relaxing and rejuvenating are the dense woodlands and abundant streams northeast of Mooi River in the 'Hidden Valley of Beauty' - Karkloof. Stretching over 50km, this continuous, flat-topped ridge offers rewarding walks, trout fishing and birding among two nature reserves and two waterfall sites...the Karkloof Falls rivalling Howick's famous 'water-feature' for grand spectacle. Members of the local Polo Club will regale you with stories of its pioneering days, how it came to be the only club in Africa to boast three playing fields and the number of Springboks produced during its 100 year-plus history. A little-known fact - especially in the United States of 1871 - is that two Karkloof brothers almost succeeded with a flying machine 32 years before the pathfinding Orville and Wilbur Wright. Modelled by Goodman and Archie Household on the wingspan and proportions of the secretary bird, the Karkloof aircraft was made of wood, reeds and calico. Something was missing in the equation, however, for when Goodman launched himself from a Karkloof slope...brother Archie could but watch in dismay as their dream plummeted to earth. Goodman survived - unlike his ambition to the first magnificent man... Continuing northeast into history, Greytown of 1906 witnessed a failed 'uprising' of an altogether different nature - the Bambatha Rebellion against colonial authority.

This 27-year-old post-script to the Anglo-Zulu War is well represented in the local museum rated one of the best of its kind in the country. Greytown was from its beginnings a major crossroads and melting pot Victorian, Hindu and Moslem architecture is today centre-stage of East meets West in the Kingdom of the Zulu . Nature and game reserves abound among this area's rugged contrast of thorn- bush and aloe-studded valley with community, para-statal and privately-run sanctuaries offering unlimited scenic walks, game- and bird-viewing, mountain-bike and 4x4 trails. A joint venture between KZN Wildlife and the timber industry has linked some 100km of hiking routes and overnight huts into the Blinkwater Trails...taking in lakes, waterfalls, scenic grasslands and indigenous forest. Greytown district history comes alive at the Mhlopeni Nature Reserve heritage site, where traces of Iron Age and early Zulu settlements are found among pioneering wagon tracks. If the kids find this too serious, take them to Mini Farm for pony rides, working-dog displays and the chance to literally 'brush greatness' - canine TV star Chummy!

zoom The Midlands - a fishermens dream

Dreams of fame and fortune lured hundreds of wide-eyed prospectors to Kranskop in the Midlands' far northeast during the 1860s. The 'gold in them hills' was pyrites, though, and everyone left...none the richer, but unquestionably a little wiser. Besides the 'tempting' geology - 17 different minerals discovered thus far - vegetation in the valley ranges from tropical rain forest to acacia savannah within a few footsteps, and the bush walks are visually priceless. For a blast of white-knuckle, white-water rafting, take the dramatically scenic district road to Jamieson's Drift in the Thukela Gorge...hit the river, shoot the rapids and then relive it all over a picnic lunch on the wide, sandy riverbank.

Overview finale...

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